Breitling launches the Premier Heritage collection of three new chronographs
Remember Travolta? Remember Beckham? Remember the weird sexist color of a brand that, for a long time, seemed unable to be completely sure of who it was trying to make watches for and how to talk to them? If you still do this, then maybe it’s finally time to forget the embarrassing period of now ancient history in Breitling’s grand plan and quickly return to relevance. As Breitling CEO Georges Kern continued to distance his brand direction from his predecessor in the Schneider era, this time he relied on the brand’s own original founding manager for inspiration to generate three new references: Tradition The hand-wound chronograph, "rattrapante" or minute-second chronograph and complete calendar chronograph together form the newly named Premier Heritage series.
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When Kern assumed the leading role of the brand in 2017, the original Breitling Premier series was more or less his banner. Premier revolves around the internal movement and utilizes the original design and more complex high-quality finishes to create a more mature Breitling and return to form-the brand’s new integrated products at the top of the various apex series. ABTW’s editor-in-chief Bilal Khan called the first prime minister “a thoughtful and detailed chronograph that exceeded expectations” in his long-term review for 2019. This new derivative series inspired by tradition seems to continue to follow the same formula. Despite adopting a more classic medieval style, it echoes the exquisite and original Premier watches launched by Willy Breitling in the 1940s.
Here, we have colorful and beautifully presented dials (which typography nerds will appreciate), Arabic numerals with applications and a more traditional chronograph movement execution method—perhaps just like Willie Breitling himself once wanted That way. Yes, this is indeed a complete calendar. Indeed, this is an amazingly clever thing that is far from the Breitling that many people may have known, but as the brand continues to mature and peel off the multiple layers of its backup catalog, we have learned something that Breitling scholars have always known: Before the advent of airplanes, before sports diving became mainstream, the brand enjoyed a period of very elegant and classic chronographs in the middle of the last century. These chronographs fully accepted the more traditional values of the watchmaking industry.
Regardless of the design intent, modern Breitling watches are more inclined to express sports, so in order to combine the two value systems of two completely different eras, we slightly enlarged the case (standard manual winding chronograph is 40 mm, The standard manual-winding chronograph is 42 mm). Minutes and seconds and full calendar variants) and 100 meters water resistance. The latter feature is a particularly interesting development-how many complete calendar chronographs can you name that are water-resistant to more than 30 or 50 meters? This special combination of complex functions is already relatively rare (Jaeger-LeCoultre, Parmigiani, Blancpain and IWC all have similar things),
Although the Premier Datora 42 full calendar (refresh: hour, minute, second, day, date, month, and moon phase) driven by the automatic movement B25 may be the focus of most of this week, the sneaky program stealers may be Entrance-level Premier B09 Chronograph 40 pays tribute to Leon Breitling’s earliest chronograph, which was the first to use a tachymeter to measure speed. A seemingly simple thing, wrapped in a truly gorgeous "pistachio" green dial, this reference is powered by the B09 manual winding chronograph movement manufactured by Breitling. So far we have seen it launched in a few products, including Navitimer reissue and AVI reference in 1959. 765 resent.
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The third option in the trio-the B15 Duograph 42 uses Breitling’s B15 movement, which is interesting because it is essentially a B03 split-second chronograph movement, even though it is manually wound. This allows designers to produce functionally similar watches in a more wear-resistant 42mm package. Like the other two new options in the series, you will have stainless steel and precious red gold options to choose from-each with its own unique dial color and color matching strap.
Specification
Brand: Breitling
Model: Premier B09 Chronograph 40 (model AB0930D31L1P1 stainless steel, model RB0930371G1P1 red gold), Premier B15 Duograph 42 (model AB1510171C1P1, stainless steel, model 2522B11P, red gold B1025B11P) model AB2510201K1P1 stainless steel, model RB2510 red gold)
Dimensions: 40 and 42 mm
Water resistance: 100 meters
Case material: stainless steel or 18k red gold
Crystal/Lens: Sapphire
Movement: Breitling Calibre B09 (manual winding chronograph wheel), Breitling Calibre B15 (manual column wheel driven dual-second chronograph), Breitling Calibre B25 (automatic chronograph with complete calendar)
Power reserve: 70 hours for B09 and B15 caliber, 48 hours for B25
Strap/strap: matching crocodile and folding clasp
